From Morog Polao to Chow Mein — On the bustling Free School Street, where tourist crowds once flocked to relive culinary nostalgia with hearty morog polao, the mood has changed. A year after a pandemic-triggered downturn in Bangladesh’s outbound travel, restaurateurs are revamping their menus, introducing continental and Chinese dishes like chow mein and pasta. The shift showcases not only business resilience but also evolving fusion trends in Kolkata’s food scene.
The Bangladesh Connection & Drop in Tourists
Gourmet footfall along Free School Street—once a magnet for Bangladeshi tourists craving vintage Indian baithak ambiance and signature dishes—dipped by 30–40% from mid-2024. Multiple sources cite lingering mobility constraints and reduced rail and air travel as contributing factors:
- Frontier review of Bangladesh’s visa renewals slowed tourist movement.
- Devaluation of the taka made overseas trips costlier, prompting a stay-other shift in dining preferences.
- Local porter jumps, city tours, and restaurant communities saw business being trimmed by nearly half during peak season.
From Morog Polao to Chow Mein: Restaurateurs Reinvent Menus
To counteract the dip, a dozen eateries revamped their offerings:
- Chicken chaap joints have added sizzlers, fried rice, and pasta.
- Bengali sweetmeats like chhanar payesh are being paired with international biscuits.
- Fusion items such as chili mishti dahi and biryani-topped noodles now feature on blackboards.
Mr. Arup Sen, owner of Heritage Café, notes:
“If Bangladeshi students aren’t here for murgh pulao, we hope backpackers chasing pasta or instant noodles will still dine.”
Other shopkeepers echoed the sentiment, pointing out that Indian high-spending tourists and local millennials are now the target.
Restaurant Culture: Nostalgia or Necessity?
Free School has always thrived on nostalgia—offering a time capsule of gentler café vibes and colonial-era menu lists. However, in 2025, survival is pushing innovation. Observers point out:
- Balancing between authenticity and experimentation is key.
- If 2026 sees Bangladeshi visitors normalise, menus will likely reintroduce meat-and-rice staples—but fusion will likely continue alongside.
Culinary Trends Among Kolkata Diners
Kolkata’s ‘food evolution’ involves:
- New generational palettes: Younger diners are blending railway-platform comfort food with Chinese and continental cravings.
- Platform economy dynamics: Swiggy and Zomato payments and viral “khichuri vs chow mein” posts encourage menu changes.
- Home chef experiments: Culinary schools have begun workshops teaching fusion cuisine: “biryani pasta,” “kathi roll congee,” and beyond.
Wider Perspectives from the Street
- Arjun Das, a student-run tour guide, says:
“Bangladeshi families and students made Columbus Books and inner restaurants buzz. They aren’t back in expected numbers yet.”
- Priya Mitra, a backpacking tourist from Mumbai:
“I loved the fish cutlet sandwich at New Market but wanted some garlic noodles afterward. The cafes now provide that—great fusion.”
Menu Snapshots (Before & After)
| Dish Category | Pre-2024 (Mens Focus) | 2025 (Post ‘Bangla’ Dip) |
|---|---|---|
| Signature plates | Murgh pulao, fish cutlet | Garlic-chilli noodles, white pasta |
| Dumplings & snacks | Egg samosa, kathi roll | Steamed momos, paneer satay |
| Desserts | Payesh, rosogolla | Chocolate mousse, churro with mishti dahi |
| Beverages | Saunf tea, Bengali mishti chai | Iced coffee, lychee mojito mocktail |
Restaurants indicate that fusion dishes now account for 25–35% of sales, and contribute over 40% of Instagram-tagged customer photos.
Will the Nostalgic Bangladeshi Crowd Return?
While the Bangladeshi diaspora remains slower to return, migration patterns show a rebound is on horizon:
- Rail-weekly Kolkata–Dhaka train services—stopped in 2024—are slowly being reinstated.
- Airlines show rising seat bookings for October–December 2025.
- Promoters of Bangladesh Day parades in New Town are seeing renewed interest from migrant groups.
In response, restaurants are planning to relaunch signature Bangladeshi meals in the holiday season, while keeping fusion on the menu.
Final Word: Innovation Born of Adversity
Free School Street’s culinary pivot is a telling case of resilience and reinvention. Facing a 40% shortfall in its primary audience, the street’s food anchors have shown:
- The adaptability of Kolkata’s gastronomic ecosystem
- Strong fusion sensibilities spaced alongside tradition
- The power of growth under market pressure and digital virality
In a city famed for fish fries and kathi rolls, this new kitchen revolution may redefine what “local flavour” means—balancing collective nostalgia with global edge.
External References
- KKDTA tourism data on Bangladeshi travel – Govt. of West Bengal Tourism
- Zomato & Swiggy 2024 food trends report – Digital Dining Index
- Bangladesh–India train corridor updates – Indian Railways Board
- Migration and remittance flow – World Bank South Asia
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